With 2025 now in full swing, Martinique – the verdant, French-Caribbean island often known by the epithet “The Isle of Flowers – is rapidly gearing up for its hotly anticipated and much-loved Carnival. In a little under a month, from March 2 to March 5, Martinique will roar to glorious life; the streets of Fort-de-France will be filled with colourful costumes, vibrant music, and the joyous energy of general revelry. Carnival unites locals and tourists alike in celebrating everything that is Martinique and is undoubtedly one of the best times to visit the otherwise serene island.
The main event may only last a few days, but Martinique takes its commitment to Carnival seriously: they even have a curated Carnival playlist on Spotify. During February, Martinique offers a packed itinerary of ‘pre-Carnival’ parades, in which enthusiast foot bands crisscross the neighbourhoods, playing spirited songs on drums, ti-bwa, cha-chas, and other traditional instruments. The infectiously festive atmosphere is cultivated well and long before Carnival arrives, turning five days of fun into a month-long season of celebration.
The Origins of Carnival
Though Carnival is a very happy time in modern Martinique, it is still a profoundly meaningful event of significant cultural importance for its people. Martinique’s Carnival traces its origins to the mid-18th century, when it represented a crucial means of preserving the collective memory – and even satirizing the traumatic scenes – of the period of slavery. The tradition of the Nèg gwo siwo remains a vital part of Carnival to this day: the legendary and revered fugitive slaves of that era are paid homage by local revellers who smear themselves with cane sugar molasses and charcoal. Other characters, like Diable Rouge, one of the characteristic characters of Martinique Carnival and has his origins in Africa.
Though it is easy to get swept up by a friendly marching group and carried away by the excitement of the procession, it is important to honour the origins of Carnival and what it means to the people of Martinique. Costumes, floats, songs, and dances are often prepared (in secret!) by the locals months in advance, speaking to the fond reverence that underpins the festivities. Today, Carnival still carries with it this undertone of resistance and expression, uniting the Martiniquais with an acknowledgement of the past, pride and passion in the present, and hope for the future.
Though it is easy to get swept up by a friendly marching group and carried away by the excitement of the procession, it is important to honour the origins of Carnival and what it means to the people of Martinique. Costumes, floats, songs, and dances are often prepared (in secret!) by the locals months in advance, speaking to the fond reverence that underpins the festivities. Today, Carnival still carries with it this undertone of resistance and expression, uniting the Martiniquais with an acknowledgement of the past, pride and passion in the present, and hope for the future.
The Five Days of Carnival
Each of Carnival’s five days promises a different, can’t-miss attraction. While one can find good food (you’ll smell it on the air), good music, and a warm welcome at private and public gatherings across Martinique, each day has its distinct character yet forms an integral part of the cohesive Carnival experience.
Samedi Gras (Shrove Saturday): The first (unofficial) day of Carnival is marked by the coming together of the Carnival Queens: the elaborately costumed local women who pour into the capital of Fort-de-France from villages all across the island to parade for the assembled crowd. A Carnival Queen, Queen Mother, and Junior Carnival Queen will be elected to lead the festivities, representing three different generations of Martinicans.
Dimanche Gras (Shrove Sunday): With Saturday serving as something of a prelude, Shrove Sunday is the first official day of Carnival…and it starts things off with a bang. The biggest parade will fall on this day, and Vaval, the Carnival King, makes his grand appearance. Vaval is a puppet who lampoons a person or event of importance from the year past and leads at the front of a massive musical procession, accompanied by Carnival Queens, musical groups, and traditional characters from Martinique’s history and folklore. One can also spot the bradjaks – old cars repainted in vibrant colours and emblazoned with satirical slogans – in the streets on Shrove Sunday.
Lundi Gras (Shrove Monday): With businesses and offices now closed across much of the island, the party kicks into high gear on Shrove Monday. Lively street parades and impromptu parties unfold over the day, including the Parade du Sud; the largest outside Fort-de-France. Shrove Monday is also known as the Burlesque Wedding Day, as locals parody matrimonial traditions by reversing clothing and gender roles in mock parodies of weddings and masquerade balls.
Mardi Gras (Tuesday): The wildest day of Carnival starts innocuously enough, as revellers take to the streets at 4:30 am for the Pajama Parade – which happens each morning during Carnival. By the afternoon, the famous Red Devils invade the festivities, weaving through the parades in impressively scary garb, with twisted horns that symbolize knowledge and abundance. The parties on Mardi Gras rage well into the night.
Ash Wednesday (Farewell to the King): Dressed in mourning colours of black and white, the revellers gather on the last day of Carnival to bid farewell to King Vaval in a faux-sombre ceremony. King Vaval will be lit aflame and serenaded by attendants who plea with him to stay, but know that his death and revival are all part of the Carnival cycle. Up to 30,000 attendees watch the scattering of his ashes – many from boats out on the water – before coming together for one last boisterous night of celebration.
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